For a change, an (uncensored) travel report by a guest author. I (Inge) have been visiting the Gambia for a week with my mother and Luc. With a suitcase full of presents, herbs, malaria pills, books about The Gambia and technical gadgets for the boat. Saturday October 17 we first flew to Lisbon and in the evening to Funchal (Madeira), where a tanned Mira, Toine, Eline and Marinthe were waiting for us. A pleasant reunion.

Cousins chatted right away. And for us it was actually as if there had been no three months in between. Probably because we had kept in touch all this time and had experienced a lot through the website. They have been 'closer' than I had expected. Mira and Toine had rented two cars (which we later exchanged for one big one) and brought the whole party to the Brandaan in about fifteen minutes. She was moored in a small, quiet marina near Quinta Dolorde, in the southeast of Madeira. What we saw of the island was already quite spectacular: high mountains, lots of vegetation, steep, winding roads and a rough coast. We drove underneath the airstrip, which was partly built on high concrete piles in the sea. Fortunately, we did not have this knowledge when we boarded the boat a few hours earlier...The first night was a bit restless. A wobbly boat and grinding ropes kept us awake. But hey, who cares: we were on Madeira - a week of sun, sea and catching up! And the breakfast on Sunday morning, fresh rolls and an egg, made up for a lot.

Madeira has a rocky coastline, but when we took the car on Sunday morning, we soon found a (black) sandy beach. Here was a sheltered piece of sea, nice and warm too. Time for a swim, to clear our dull head. After drying up in the sun we had an extensive lunch with grilled fish (us), meat (Toine) and white wine. We started to get a good picture of the life these people have been leading for a couple of months now! In the afternoon we drove to the highest mountain of Madeira (Pico do Arieiro, over 1800 meters). A memorable ride, both up and down, with lots of curves, exuberant children, halfway through some fog and clouds but at the top a spectacular view. And Toine who, after a cautious start, picked up his old, familiar style of driving ("In the mountains you should only brake just before a bend. Otherwise your brakes will overheat"). Back in the harbour, 'captain dinghy Eline' taught Luc the finer points of sailing, starting the engine and mooring. We ate a nice bowl of nasi and went to bed satisfied. Toine had made rubbers on the ropes, so they squeaked and creaked a lot less.

On Monday we spent a day in Funchal, a surprisingly big and busy city, partly due to the day trippers from the many cruise ships that dock here. For Toine this was a good moment to get a haircut, because he heard from a colleague that his hair was getting too long. The fruit market, with local fruits like 'banana pineapple' and passion fruit, was fun. Unfortunately, the fruits we were allowed to taste were a lot tastier than the ones we got to take home. Stupid tourists ... In the afternoon we took the cable car to a large tropical garden. Funchal is built against a steep mountain and at the top you had a nice view. Once back down, it was of course way too late to do any shopping, so we drove back to the boat, to have a drink and a bite to eat in the harbour. We all went to bed late.

According to the weather maps it was going to rain on Tuesday, but the sky was clear blue in the morning. So first we had a relaxed breakfast with banana pancakes and a tropical fruit shake. The only thing that really needed doing was shopping, because the Brandaan's stock of drinks, flour and cans was largely depleted. On the way to the supermarket, the children dropped me off at a lovely little beach, where we swam, snorkelled and sunbathed for a couple of hours. Later Mira, Toine and mama came with the dinghy. High time for a good lunch. Grilled sardines with a view on the sea! After a short swim the seven of us got back in the dinghy. Toine wanted to row, but we could not get into the surf. So we secretly used the engine. We took a shower near the boat. And then the predicted (drizzling) rain arrived, so we had dinner inside for the first time.

Looking for a hike that was fun and that everyone could do, we ended up on the northwest coast on Wednesday. We got up early and had breakfast in a poussada (bed and breakfast). They had to swallow a bit when the seven of us entered, but it turned out fine. Delicious breakfast buffet. A few cows to avoid and a hundred thousand bends further (even driver Toine got dizzy this time) we finally arrived at the starting point of the walk. It was supposed to be quite flat, but it started with a steep climb and then down again. After more than an hour we still hadn't reached the place where we should have been after half an hour according to the description, so we decided to turn around. Under loud cheering from the kids. Our next goal: natural rock pools on the north coast. Nice and relaxing. We thought. Because of a unique low pressure area over the Azores, there was a lot of swell at sea. The result: huge waves hitting the coast, straight into the rock pools. Hardly ever seen, they said. And we saw it! Spectacular was the way back along the coast. Many curves, many tunnels. And very nice views. We were back in the marina just in time to pick up the Barbarossa. They had just come over from Porto Santo with the parents of Ellen on board. Nice to meet them, especially since Mira and Toine will spend a lot of time with them in the near future. A nice drink and then dinner. All in all a bit too much wine, but that's alright.

Thursday morning we took it easy. In the early afternoon we left, unfortunately with too little wind to really sail, to a beautiful anchor bay just a little bit further away. Only sea and rocks around us, no other boats. Mira and Toine don't experience that very often either. From the boat we saw an exciting footpath along the cliffs, ending at the tip of the peninsula. So we jumped in the dinghy (only mama stayed on board) and moored at a rocky beach. It looked like it could be done. Toine waited until a wave had passed and then gave it plenty of gas. Luc and Marinthe were safely on the rocks and the rest was just getting out when Toine called out (in his Toine way) that we had to tow the boat up really fast now. I looked back, saw a huge wave coming towards us and knew for sure: soon I will be under it. So then we were wet. Very wet. But it wasn't so bad: nothing or nobody was broken. So we just dragged the boat up and went for a walk. That was definitely worth it. High cliffs, waves and a view of the east coast. For the way back we had a plan. Kids take off their clothes and get in the boat first. Toine, Mira and me up to our waists and later up to our necks in water to keep the boat straight. Then it soon got dark. We lit the barbecue and had a special evening in this remote bay. Eating skewers and roasting marshmallows. Unfortunately no starry sky, so pretty dark. I decided to sleep one night on deck, on the cushions in a sleeping bag. With a bit of fantasy, I kept watch at night, in the middle of the sea. Halfway through the night Luc also joined in. Nice, and we did not get seasick at all!

At dawn it was Friday, our last day here. Breakfast with delicious smelling homemade bread. Toine and I got into the dinghy to explore the rocky coastline with the kids. Luc and Eline were able to snorkel for half an hour and shoot some underwater pictures. After that we weighed the anchors and headed for Funchal. In the distance we saw a huge school of dolphins. Every now and then one of them jumped out of the sea. Unfortunately they were gone when we passed. But we saw them! Against all expectations, there was a place for us in the marina of Funchal. And also for the Barbarossa, that arrived a few hours later. So now we are paddling along quietly, so that I can finish this report in peace. We will have one more drink and one more dinner and then fly back home tomorrow morning. That means saying goodbye again, but for a little less time. It was very nice to see how Mira, Toine, Eline and Marinthe live here. The coming travel reports will come to life even more. For them, the journey to an unknown area is just starting. Gambia, Cape Verde, a few big crossings. We wish them all the best and sympathize with them from the Netherlands.

Safe journey, Brandaan!